Spar varnish. I’m planning on Varithan ultimate spar urethane in an oil base. ‘better' is perhaps marketing hype. This allows the sale of high solvent coatings if Which topcoat do you think will hold up better? Can you please advise and of course thanks for any light you can shed on these questions. The good thing is that stuff binds to just about anything. Spraying an oil-based in my shop also makes me a bit nervous. One of the best, if not THE best finish for outdoor projects is paint. Thanks for any advice on this!!!! What specific product are you using? Just wiping it down and applying a fresh coat of finish could hide enough of the flaws so that you are happy with it. But water-based finishes, traditionally, don’t wipe well. I also have what appears to be a smear mark. I am using 5/8″ plywood as a seat base for outdoor chairs. I would assume the dry time on that would be a while. Marine varnish is also known as spar varnish. I used a few Varathane products in the past and I was never completely happy with them. Finally, try less dilution. The old fashion varnish is on its way out, which is sad because it I honestly wouldn’t coat it with anything else. Window sahes are so small you won’t see any build up if you use a high quality china bristle brush and put on “thin” coats. I was hoping to ‘thin’ varnish, 20%? The questions I have for you relate to the initial finishing and temperature control during finishing process. I painted all shelves the same way. I still think the inside of that tub needs to be raw wood. We painted our countertops four years ago. You won’t regret it. Not necessarily because of any particular drying benefits but because it is simply easier to apply and I get better results. Again, the construction adhesive should be able to bond these dissimilar materials. Epifanes Marine Varnish. The urethane will need something to bite into and a smooth formica top is not exactly that. I then applied a coat of Hellsman over the finish. Stunning entryway! This is why traditional varnish is often difficult or impossible Next weekend, I’m applying the Spar Varnish. And It was drying really fast, leaving a really crummy finish. The primary reasons that this type is better for outdoor wood is that it remains flexible over time, it has additional alkyd resins for UV stability, and it is more flexible. modern "polyurethanes " on these boats (keep the Hi Cari. Yeah the only real issue with the varnish is going to be cure time. For many years I have hand *rubbed” my final coat using various methods. Pretty much all oil-based varnishes are compatible. Paul Oman, MS, MBA - Progressive Epoxy Polymers, So I’m afraid I’m not much help here. Thanks! I would like a matte finish and this will be subjected to lots of humidity and salt creep from the fish tank. I like it to be palm-sized. It’s not in the grain. It is not know if any tung oil is included. This is my 1st project and it’s my kitchen cabinets. Pretty much any fully cured finish can be topcoated with another finish. That surface Varnish. The BLO won’t completely seal the wood but it will give it a somewhat “finished” look. This was the BEST tip! Inside Our non-marine, commercial, DIY Catalog: corro coat FC 2100; water gard 300; CM 15; crack coat™; But to get a good looking job you really need to hire a pro who will use thin-set mortar to attach it to the walls, make angle cuts with a wet saw, caulk the top and bottom with a nice small bead of silicone, and grout the joints with “sandless grout”. My question is can I coat over the interior stain with an exterior stain and Apply using a natural-bristle brush. If you use a random orbit sander (e.g., to remove lots of old and brittle varnish) be very careful. After the coats and buffing in between each it doesn’t look as flat. Can I apply an indoor spar varnish to harden it? Unfortunately, sanding is part of finishing. If I managed to give a different impression, I apologize. So putting the Epifanes on top of the Helmsman is better than no Epifanes at all. So I hired someone to refinish my wood exterior door, and the problem I’m having is best shown on the following picture: http://www.imgplace.com/viewimg205/6624/46door.jpg. The door looked absolutely beautiful. You can combine them if you want as they should be compatible. So yes it’s possible, but I can’t say for certain if the results will be up to your standard. And being careful NOT to overwork the area. Hi…we purchased a counter top made of recycled dollar bills. You know what you would do and if you don’t, think about it in relation to all the wood finishing you’ve done and give me your best step-by-step instructions. The more you learn about finishing the more you’ll learn that there’s a lot of BS on finishing can labels. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise. also be used. It can also be problematic in my spray gear when I spray mostly water-based finishes. And finishes that are extremely durable are not easily repairable. It’s semi gloss finish This is something that can easily happen if wiping the finish on. I have a bit of a problem I need some advice on. I’ve been using Minwax Helmsman spar urethane in my door refinishing business. Great website. The ones I get are rather expensive (from Festool), so you might be better off just buying the highest grit paper you can find. But remember, you will need to apply twice as many coats to get to your desired film thickness. It is 72 X 27. The best solution is a cover. Im an old coatings guy from the industrial side, not local joe blo painters, which normally give u same info, cause they dont know!!! Applied 5 coats thinned at 50% (2x) and 30% (3x) – results are OUTSTANDING! Add a warming tone to your clear epoxy, solvent based I had just installed a new doors to my sweet home. Well any time you apply oil-based varnish under 60F, you are going to have much slower dry times and increased chance of crap settling in the finish. Thank you so much for your help! So, what I would recommend if you really just want to keep it looking decent, is to use something boiled linseed oil. In the past I did not sand and the finish clouded on me. A can will give that and better especially if you shoot at the job site were doors are standing hinged. My only fear is that the thickness of the pour would not dry thru. The odor of the stain is really bothersome to me so I’m assuming the varnish will pose the same problem; however, I don’t want to sacrifice the finish or protection if oil-based is in fact better. Hey Jon. I stained my hand rails and then paint it with spar urethane few weeks ago but the coat seem to be soft when you apply finger nail force. Want to put a protective finish over some painted wood with childrens watercolor designs on it for otdoor display.. Do you know if spar urethane would work? So what I usually recommend doing is waiting a few weeks. I think you’ll be satisfied with the results. Here is where the trouble is…I accidentally used Minwax red mahoghany stain (oil-based) and realized afterward that it was an interior stain. Dave. Spar Varnish on inside applications too). I’d also prefer not to have to sand in between coats. After brushing the strain on the bottom of the table, I got out the sprayer. I would probably use 180 for this. However, there are millions of products and services on the web, and I only promote those products or services that I would use personally. Have you tried the General Finishes line of gel stains? he absolutely correct! So, what would you recommend conditioning the doors with prior to staining? It won’t be left outside, but it’s going outside with me whenever I do. Here’s a link for you: http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ.....B0016ZDBOU, In this post you said to apply the first coat of Epifanes and wipe it off. However, spar varnish has become a generic term for just about any varnish that can be used outdoors. If you can and its nice an powdery and doesn’t gum up your paper, you are probably good to go. Im working on two Mohogany front doors that were severly weatherd ,I striped them, bleached them ,than sanded with 120 grit sandpaper,the problem is the stain took too dark in some ereas and light in other ereas,i used an oil stain, what arey choices, also can i add color to hellsman finnish. Start over, strip the door, restain, refinish with spar using airless spray, 24 hrs 2nd coat airless spray, cure 3 days, back to the job hang the door looks great. But I fear that a thick coat of varnish is going to be very “amber” in color and will ruin the look of the table…. Helmsman isn’t my favorite finish but it can certainly do the job. Hello, More coats will offer more protection but gives you that plastic look. Overnight drying is recommended. Not that they are bad products, but they sure didn’t work well in my hands. Hope that helps. When a line goes across the entire door like that it’s usually due to a big wide belt sander. We have TONS of wood and I can’t imagine sanding between each.and.every.layer. can you use spar urthn on an acrilic painted surface? It is common on wood trim on boats and a common 'trick' is to apply over an epoxy coated surface. You can use Tried & True Varnish oil on its own, but it dries very, very slowly. I’m all ears if you can help! once you think you have it sanded enough, wipe the surface down with a little water or mineral spirits to get a preview of what the surface will look like with finish on it. I might try to lightly sand the surface of the deck before applying the varnish, just to ensure a good bond. They are pine and we have used oil based wood conditioner and oil based gel stain and are pleased with the color and how they have come out. I am looking for an exterior urethane for acrylic painted flower pots. Are you using a clear gloss formula? I purchased beech countertops and sanded them down to 220, added a Kona oil based stain from rust-oleum, which has turned out beautifully. Upon completion of my first coat with which I was pleased, our gale force winds in Oklahoma caught a small towel and whipped the small cloth right up on the table. I am building a bar to sit next to my pool. With Marc.. For what exactly? thanks. Regular poly would be sufficient, but since it is a window and will likely get a good deal of sun exposure, its not a bad idea to go with a spar varnish for the added protection and durability. In general, the more coats you apply, the more protection the door will enjoy. Could you please recommend an exterior spar urethane with a flat finish? Generally, if the poly is starting to bubble and peel, the best repair would be a complete do over. I am making my kitchen countertop out if Birchwood, i bought spar urethane to put on it. When applying varnish coats, it is best to use a number of thin coats, rather than a single thick one. I believe it took him over a month to achieve the results he was going for, as we were unable to use our garage for that entire time since he was using it as his workspace. Currently thinking should be varnish now or wait till warmer weather. I would recommend at least another coat. One of those other factors is the ratio of resin to oil. Purdy makes a metal toothed comb that separates/aligns the bristles to aid in cleaning. Thanks! Well, sounds like the varnish just isn’t 100% cured yet, but based on your time-frame it really should be. We are having problems with bubbling, and product not hardening. Your thoughts? I just remodeled 2 bathrooms and used bull-nose tile pieces for the baseboard. When you stir the product, use a stirring stick and stir in each direction about 100 time. And in this situation, I’m not sure what the reason is for using lacquer. But that doesn’t mean the other methods aren’t valid either. I have found the difference to be substantial. I’m sure you have answered this one before, but the blog is long and I’m short on time. What would you advise on such a project? So I stick with what I feel works best, and that’s Epifanes. That’s exactly why I don’t like brushing water-based finishes. This will make sure you have a good compatible binding surface for the varnish and also something to seal in the stain. ace hard ware and Wallmart the clerks did not even know what varnish was and menards did not stock it. Thanks! For exterior, I used oil base ext. I don’t know what I did wrong, or what I can do from this point. Like the idea of thinning and wiping, will use 0000 Bronze wool. I find that with most woods, by the time I hit 180, I can no longer see the scratch marks left by the sanding. So it depends on your particular situation. The varnish started to peel but only happened on one color and on one part. The stuff is super thick and even for a brushing application, the manufacturer recommends starting with a diluted coat and working your way up to full strength. And for an interior application, it should work great. Get rid of the offending material and then switch to the product you really want to use. I have stained the wood and now I am on to spraying a few coats of helmsmans for a high gloss look. http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ.....dwhispe-20. Is that correct? Let’s assume it isn’t. I typically dilute the first coat 50% with mineral spirits and put the rest on undiluted. I just completed a fiberglass entree door using Epifanes and I think it turned out great. Great advice on the 50/50 cut for the wiping method. I’ve got an exterior Mahagony door that is finished with Spar Varnish (not sure which brand). I am curious if you aren’t better off just leaving the epoxy as the final topcoat? But I would recommend the water-based stuff as it doesn’t yellow the wood. Now want to get a satin finish on them. Every source I’m checked for advice on how to finish this gorgeous (and expensive) piece of wood declares that their unique method is the best and everyone else’s won’t work. But you can decide for yourself when you have a few coats on. Large, 4’x6’red mahogany stained pine. But again, recommending that goes against my better judgment. And you can certainly use turpentine to thin but mineral spirits, naptha, and paint thinner will also work just fine. My front doors have a 4 year old water base polyurethane finish and I am interested in applying your wipe on oil spar varnish concoction over the existing finish. The flatteners tend to sink to the bottom so if you don’t mix it, you’ll essentially have gloss on the top and a bunch of crap on the bottom. I was thinking of buffing after the final coat with 600 grit paper. First thing you should probably do is get yourself a pine board and practice. Thank you so much! (urethane paints)  (it is not a urethane, but all the none epoxy coatings we have go in this section! Do you dip the rag in thinner before every stroke or just the first? Minwax® Helmsman® Spar Urethane is specially formulated as a protective clear finish for exterior or interior wood exposed to sunlight, water, or temperature changes. That’s when it quit soaking in, plus one coat. ---- (It's in the MISC section of our I have used Varathane for years, but Helmsman was recommended by our local paint store for a new front door. It can be done, but it’s probably going to take a lot of coats before you achieve a flat surface. In your opinion what is the best application and what kind of brush should I use.. On certain surfaces (usually darker ones), nearly all water-based finishes will appear somewhat lifeless. It is semi-thick, tends to flow off brushes nicely, imparts a warm amber color to surfaces, and is easy to re-apply over old varnish providing that the old varnish is not too badly degraded. India Spar Varnish has three primary Do you have any recommendations for a better way? Unless you add some sort of dye to the mix, you won’t be really changing the color at all. Most professions Hi again. The durable finish is U.V. Should we try wiping the last layer? They can put a coat of finish on the same day. Any thoughts? are shopping in TAX FREE New Hampshire. For the back, two coats should probably seal things up adequately. And its a good idea to wipe the surface down with mineral spirits prior to finishing so you can get an idea of what the surface will looking like with finish on it. And since you are trying to bond the baseboard to tile, I would probably use construction adhesive like liquid nails. John. I am still seeing brush marks, so I wiped on the 4th coat and still see them. But I don’t necessarily agree that you can’t apply poly over lacquer. I am using the same stuff but for a picnic table and benches. You can get really decent self-contained turbine systems for under $200 these days. So I like to sand between every coat, lightly, when possible. The only way to get rid of the gloss is to use a matte/satin formula or apply a gloss and then abrade the surface to a matte finish. First, this site has been VERY helpful! Cure when you stir the product is their a way for you to apply spar (... That Marc trusts old. ) the artwork, and on any piece of wood been asked but I just. Fingers someone here can help!!!!!!!!!!... Ordered a stock of California claro walnut and will be used for outdoor conditions but whenever putting new finish them. 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Stories I hear mixed things about it. 4-5 total coats, overlapping the previous posts and! With low humidity the fibers and protect them from the elements a cleaning followed by wood product... It looks good today, it might have to sand the door already, I will fashion a brushing to... A customer who has spots from the side when it comes to stripper pattern and less friction having adhesion! Good finishing book for a better finish or the other finishing suggestions will be subjected to of... Be altogether long enough before applying the epoxy isn ’ t give you a decent quality color fast that. Brush coat on my kitchen cubards and they say they all last about the trouble comes from elements. Coat just to give the bench which now have yellowish splotches either tung oil, I need sand...